So this doesn’t really have an Italian name because it’s my own creation, but it certainly follows the rules of traditional Italian cooking: start with fresh ingredients, in season, and don’t do more than is necessary. Also, if you find two ingredients that belong together (e.g., tomato and mozzarella, escarole and canellini), just put them […]
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Braised Oxtails
Ox tails used to be cheap, but not so much anymore. They’re a tough cut that requires long cooking, but when they’re done right, they’re as tender and flavorful as a prime cut. Still, you can’t just toss them on the grill and have dinner in ten minutes. That’s why they’re supposed to be cheap. […]
Stuffed artichokes
We had a wonderful holiday tradition when I was growing up. Every Easter, dad would make stuffed artichokes. There’s a two-part process for cooking them: first, they need to simmer in a pot, then they get browned beneath the broiler right before serving. So he would leave them on the stove until he was ready […]
Escarole and beans
Escarole is a slightly bitter green related to endive and frisée. It’s pretty coarse when raw, but softens up with cooking. It can be hard to find in supermarkets, though you can sometimes find it in the farmer’s market in winter. I used to grow my own—it grows pretty well in SoCal. This is a […]
String beans
My father grew beautiful beans in his garden. He’d gather some of the nicest ones and freeze them so we could enjoy them in winter. It’s important not to overcook the beans—they should still be very firm. Just cook them for a minute or two. Put them straight in the vinaigrette while they’re still hot […]
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