After college, I worked one summer in an Italian restaurant, earning enough money to take a trip to Europe. I had no experience, but the restaurant was new (in fact, it hadn’t even opened yet), and they needed bodies. Also, when I met the chef/owner, Pasquale, I spoke a bit of Italian with him (though we spoke different dialects). I started as a busboy, but soon, Pasquale gave me the choice of either waiting tables or working in the kitchen. Obviously, I chose the kitchen. Pasquale, a former monk, was the only person I’ve ever met who actually spoke Esperanto. Still, his thick accent made for some interesting interactions—like when he asked me to bring the garbage and I went looking around for a cabbage.
I learned a lot from him during my brief time at the restaurant. This dish was a popular item on the menu. It later became equally popular in our household. It’s easy to make with stuff you probably already have in the pantry, and it’s essentially vegetarian (depending on whether you count the anchovies). Though often made with spaghetti or bucatini, I find it works just as well with penne.
Oh, and what about the name? It translates to “prostitute-style spaghetti.” One explanation is that it was quick and easy for the girls to eat between jobs. The other explanation is that it tastes so rich, you’d think it took a long time to prepare — so a woman could pretend she was home cooking all day, regardless of where she really was and what she was really doing.
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What you need
olive oil
garlic
anchovy
tomatoes, fresh or canned
olives
capers
parsley (if you have it)
crushed red pepper (optional)
How you make it
- Coat the bottom of a pan with olive oil and add a clove or two of chopped garlic and maybe two chopped anchovy fillets. You can add a pinch of basil and oregano, as well as a dash of red pepper flakes. Simmer for a minute or two.
- Add some chopped or crushed tomatoes — anywhere from a half to a full can, or 3 or 4 fresh, depending on how big they are. Let that simmer for a minute or two.
- Add about a cup of chopped olives — I usually use both black and green, but you can use any type. Let that simmer a bit more while you cook the pasta.
- Add a spoonful of rinsed capers.
- When the pasta is al dente, add it directly to the sauce, along with a little of the cooking water. Cook it in the sauce for a minute or so.
- Sprinkle with some chopped parsley, if you have it. This dish doesn’t take grated cheese — the pungent flavors would overpower it.
Buon appetito!
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